How To Build an IG32 SB4 4WD Robot

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These videos will walk you through building the following robots:

• IG32 SB4 4WD Robot
• IG42 SB4 4WD Robot

Please note that this platform is for ages 16 and up, and requires some mechanical and electrical skills as well as some experience with basic hand tools. This is a professional development robot platform with a robust welded chassis and quality components. Each wheel is supported by a durable double sealed bearing which takes most of the load off of the motor shafts and puts it on the chassis. This results in an increased payload. The chassis is made of 1/8” thick aluminum, which is easy to drill into, allowing this platform to be customized to fill your requirements. If you do not feel comfortable assembling this platform, we can assemble it for you for an extra charge. If you have questions feel free to Contact Us.

SDR Fabrication Services

This video shows just a few of the fabrication services we provide to build the chassis and wheel shafts for this 4WD SuperDroid Robot build.

We offer high-quality metal and fabrication services to meet your needs. With our new 10,000 square foot climate-controlled facility, state of the art equipment, and excellent staff, we can provide affordable quality services! Let us know your requirements and we will use our knowledge and experience to make sure the project is done right using the most cost-effective process. Regardless of where you live, simply submit a quote with your design and we will ship your finished product both domestically and internationally. All services are performed at our shop in Fuquay-Varina, NC, USA.

Part 1: Prep the Motors

Note: In the video, we show how to put capacitors in between the motor terminals. We typically skip this step as it usually is not necessary and in some cases can cause the robot to behave erratically. If after assembling the robot there is electrical noise (static in a camera feed while motor is moving, motors not moving how they are being commanded) then we will try using capacitors to combat this.

To get started, we will wire the the IG32 motors. The first thing we will do is strip back about 2-3 inches of the wire's outer insulation to expose the red and black wire underneath. Place a large ferrite bead and heat shrink over the junction where the outer casing exposes the inner wires. Place the smaller ferrite beads and heat shrink on the wires BEFORE you solder the wires to the motors. There is a red dot on the motor to indicate which side the red wire attaches to. Once the soldering is done, use a heat gun on the heat shrink tubing around the ferrite beads.

Tools and Supplies used in this video:

• Soldering Iron
• Wire Cutters/Strippers
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Heat Gun
• Electric Motor Hookup Kit

Part 2: Prepping the Wheels and Attaching the Motors to the Chassis

Now that the motors are ready, let's prep the wheels. Simply use the included nuts and bolts to mount the shafts to the wheels. If the plates of the wheel come apart you can just use a longer screw to get it started and then replace with the regular screw to continue. This rarely happens but if it does this is a great way to correct it. Connect the motor plates to the motors by lining up the holes on the plate with the holes on the motor and secure with the enclosed screws. When putting the motors in the chassis it is a good idea to arrange them where the writing on the motor is pointing up in case you ever need the numbers off of the motors you won't have to take them off to get them. After the mounting plates are on the motors use the longer screws and the spacers to attach the motor to the chassis and secure with the nuts. Repeat for the other 3 motors and this completes this step.

Tools and Supplies used in this video:

• Phillips Head Screw Driver
• 1/4" Wrench

Part 3: Mounting the Wheels

To mount the wheels start by putting the lock collar on the shaft, then a bearing. Insert the shaft through the first hole in the chassis and after it is inside the chassis and before putting on the motor shaft add slide another lock collar on the wheel shaft. Now slide the wheel shaft over the motors shaft and line up the hole in the shaft with the flat part of the motor shaft. Line up the shaft collar with the hole in the wheel shaft and tighten a set screw or socket head screw through the wheel shaft and onto the flat part of the motor shaft. Push the bearing into the hole in the chassis and secure tightly to the chassis using the other lock collar. You can now apply a small amount of silicone caulk to the ends of the motor mount screws to keep them from vibrating loose.

Tools and Supplies used in this video:

• Phillips Head Screw Driver
• 1/4" Wrench
• T-handle Allen Wrench
• Standard Screwdriver
• Wire Cutters/Strippers
• Drill
• Deburring Tool
• Silicone

Part 4: Installing the Motor Controller and Installing the on/off Switch

Learn about placement and install the motor controller and the on/off switch.

The motor controller will be mounted under the robot but drilling the holes for placement is best done working from the top of the robot. Place the controller where you want it to go and drill the 1/8" holes. Use a drive pin punch to make starter holes for the drill, this makes it much easier to get the holes in the right place. Put the screws through the chassis and then put the spacers on before putting on the controller. Secure with the nuts provided. To install the on/off switch, first decide where you want it located then drill a 1/2" hole.

Tools and Supplies used in this video:

• 1/4" Wrench
• Drill
• 1/8" Drill Bit
• 1/2" Drill Bit
• Deburring Tool
• Drive Pin Punch

Part 5: Wiring the Motors to the Motor Controller and Wiring the Switch

Wiring the motors to the motor controller consists of cutting the wires to the proper length and inserting the bare wire into the motor controller (see video for placement). Heat shrink needs to be applied to the wires where the wires split from the outer casing. Next cut a 1/2" hole for the receiver wires. Wire the switch (a good tip here is to put a little solder on both the switch terminals and the wire to make soldering easier). The wires run to the motor controller and the fuse (see the video for placement). Make sure you put the heat shrink on the wire before you solder! After soldering, put the heat shrink on the joint and shrink with a heat gun. After connecting the switch to the fuse run the other side of the fuse to the battery. You can use zip ties to tidy up your wiring.

Tools and Supplies used in this video:

• Wire Cutters/Strippers
• Heat Gun
• Soldering Iron
• Small Standard Screwdriver
• Drill
• 1/2" Drill Bit
• Deburring Tool

Part 6: Mounting the Batteries, Remote Setup and Testing

To mount the battery, mark and drill 1/8" holes to hold the battery mounts. Place the batteries on the chassis and secure with the battery mount and install the mount screws. Cut the wires to length and crimp the battery terminal ends on the wire. Put heat shrink on the terminal ends. Next put the batteries in the RC controller. Put the receiver on the batteries up high to get the best reception. Put the robot up on a pedestal to allow the wheels to spin freely. Put the fuse in the fuse holder. You are now ready to power on the robot and the RC transmitter. Depending on which transmitter you are using you may need to bind it before you can drive the robot.

Tools and Supplies used in this video:

• Drill
• Drive Pin Punch
• 1/8" Drill Bit
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Heat Gun